Lake Tisza (E3) Hungary’s second largest lake was not formed by nature; it is man-made – created in the 1970s by the damming up of the river Tisza. Happily, the new ‘waterworld’ resulted in the return of several species that had previously died out in the area, including beavers, many protected and endangered species of bird, and fifty types of fish. It is also the site of Europe’s largest area of water lilies Nature, man, conservation and water sports all manage to coexist in the various different parts of the Lake as well as along the 44-mile shore. There is unique bird life inhabiting the lush, protected reeds of Tiszavalk Pool (E3) (not all of which is open to visitors). The Bird Sanctuary, as part of the Hortobágy National Park, enjoys World Heritage status. Except during the nesting season, much of the habitat of close on 200 indigenous species of bird – including summer goose, lanner, great heron (the bird that appears on the crest of Hungarian Nature Conservation) – can be visited by rowing boat or motor boat. But bird life can also easily be observed from the dykes built up around the lake, along which visitors are free to roam – on foot, by bicycle or on horseback.
The central part of the Lake – Poroszló Pool (E3) – whilst still being protected, has relatively few restrictions on visiting, and has as many sights as the northern parts. This is a paradise for anglers. After the dam was built the flooded areas witnessed an amazing growth in fish stocks. The large open expanses of water, the presence of reeds and islands, and the meandering river bed with trees drooping into the water, all combine to promise big catches, mainly of predatory types, not just in summer but in the winter months as well.
It is interesting to note that in the centre of the lake the river Tisza still follows its original course, and this is a favourite route for water tours. The southern bay of Lake Tisza, Abádszalók Bay (E3) is the realm of water sports enthusiasts. Along with sailing boats and surf boards, the use of motor boats and jet skis are also permitted, uniquely on a European lake. There are good hiring facilities too. The largest beach is situated here – it is over half a mile long – along with its associated entertainment complex. The shallow, warm water makes for ideal bathing conditions for children. Little ones and grown-ups alike will also surely find the village doll museum an interesting place to visit.

Tiszaújváros (F2) here, to the north of the lake, you will find one of the most modern bathing complexes in Hungary, complete with therapy centre, open-air pools, leisure pool, and balneology and physiotherapy departments. The iodine-rich waters have medicinal properties. Tiszacsege (F3) the thermal water at Tiszacsege (72°C, 162°F) is used in the treatment of rheumatic and myalgic conditions. The town has a romantic setting near the River Tisza, and a protected part of it – known as Kácsa Island – is an unspoiled haven for animal and plant life. In summer there are motor boat excursions starting from the quay to the gallery forests alongside the Tisza. In the town itself the restored Cotter’s House and the fortified Church are of interest. Tiszafüred (F3) is one of the most sought-after resorts on Lake Tisza, and from the good quality boat landings there are various ways of reaching the lily-covered backwaters of the river. There is a pleasant sandy beach and popular thermal baths. Hungary’s first ever village museum was created in a Tiszafüred mansion house in 1949. A preserved potter’s house also functions as a museum of the life and work of the town’s famous pottery dynasty.

Poroszló (E3) the “Tájház” Village Museum contains a collection of old fishing and other implements. Water sports equipment is available for hire, and river tours also start from here. Kunhegyes (E4) the twin-towered Classic style Calvinist Church is visible from great distances on the Puszta. Sometimes called the “Cathedral of the Great Plain”, it has a capacity of five thousand. The preserved windmill is open to the public, and contains displays of traditional handicrafts.

Berekfürdő (F3) the town’s medical waters draw visitors from far and wide, providing relief from locomotor and articular complaints. Berekfürdő’s chief claim to fame, however, is its glassworks, or rather the distinctive Fátyol (“Gossamer” or frosted) glass, decorated with myriad tiny cracks, produced there.

Karcag (F4) is to be found to the south-east of Lake Tisza, in a region called Nagykunság. It is an area rich in tumuli – protected conical or dome-shaped hills, about 5 to 10 metres high and 20 to 50 metres across, thought to have been used at one time as burial places. The people who gave their name to this region – the “Kun” – were a nomadic group who reared animals and were excellent fighters, and who settled on the Great Plain in the thirteenth century. Their history is retold in the Nagykun Museum in Karcag, and illustrated with some of their artefacts, painted furniture and famous ceramics. The best known creation of the Karcag ceramists is the so-called “Miska” Jug, depicting a Hussar wearing his characteristic shako. It won First Prize at the Brussels World Exhibition, and examples of it can be seen in the collection at the Pottery House. Other crafts are also practised at Karcag, and the glazed black crockery, the bone lace, the “Szűr” (long embroidered felt coat), and the many varieties of oven-baked “kalács” cakes are all well-known far beyond the confines of the town.

Szolnok (E4) as it flows south from the lake, the River Tisza relaxes its pace at Szolnok. Lying in the middle of the Great Plain and at the confluence of the Rivers Zagyva and Tisza, the town has been an important crossing point on the trade routes for over 900 years. Szolnok possesses the oldest railway station in Hungary (the “Indóház”). An artists’ colony was established here in 1902, and many prominent names in modern Hungarian art started out here, and in so doing also spread the name of the town. The original twelve studios and two pavilions did not function as a school, but served rather to preserve each member’s individuality of style. Works produced at the colony can be seen in the Szolnok Gallery.
The pleasant waterside area is ideal for relaxation and recreation. The town’s main natural assets are its thermal waters, gushing up from a source a mile down inside the earth, along with the Rivers Zagyva and Tisza and their backwaters which afford such remarkable opportunities for water sports.

Törökszentmiklós and Kétpó (E4) both have close links with the Almásy family, on account of the mansion house they built and the English Thoroughbred stud farm they founded, one of the best known in Hungary. The town is the straw plaiting centre of Hungary, with summer camps devoted to the craft.

Mezőtúr (E4) has produced a distinctive and colourful style of pottery since the sixteenth century. The fame of its yellow ochre dishes, plates, jugs, mugs and flasks decorated with red, green and white designs, has spread the world over, and of course there is a wide selection on offer for sale. Cserkeszőlő (E5) thermal water was first discovered at Cserkeszőlő in 1943. It has a rich mineral content, is iodic, and very hot (83°C, 181°F)! Before development took place, rheumatic visitors would simply avail themselves of the water in channels dug out of the sand, but nowadays there is a modern beach and thermal bathing complex, including leisure pools. It is an international tourist’s paradise, and is open all year. Drinking cures are also available. The nearby Tiszakürt Arboretum is worth visiting.