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Kőszeg (B5) In this, the loveliest small town in Pannonia, you cannot find a
straight road, for the layout of streets has not changed since medieval times.
The colourful Baroque and Classicist residential buildings of the 17th and
18th centuries were built along the streets of the old medieval town. Europe
learnt the name of Miklós Jurisics, the captain of the castle (more of a mansion
than a fortress) in the historical centre, in 1532 when, in command of
small forces, he stopped the Turkish army on its way to Vienna. The Turks
left the city walls at 11 o’clock, and ever since bells are rung in Kőszeg at
eleven to commemorate the Hungarian victory.
Not only is the town famous, but so are its vineyards and wines. The owners
of the vineyards of Kőszeg–Hegyalja follow the uniquely local custom of
parading into town in spring to make a ceremonial presentation of the new
vine shoots. After this, they register the shoots in what is known as the
"Book of Arrival of the Vines", which has been kept since 1740. The book is
a rarity in European cultural history.
Írott-kő Nature Park From Kőszeg, the road leads up through forests to the
highest peak of Pannonia, an 883-metre summit called the Írott-kő (Written
Stone). From the top you can see the Austrian–Hungarian border. This hill,
rich in rare plants, conceals the first fortress of the region, the Upper Castle,
from Árpád’s time, built on a six-hundred-metre high rocky outcrop.
Beautiful villages were built on the banks of the streams running down
from the hill. In Velem (B5) an old wooden bridge spans the stream. On top
of the hill on the village border stands the famous thirteenth-century St. Vid
Chapel. In neighbouring Bozsok (B5), the air is especially clear and healthy,
not only because of the proximity of the Alps, but also because of the abundance
of water in this area.
The village is famous for its seventeenth-century mansion and its ancient
park. The nearby village of Cák (B5) is famed for its thatched, whitewashed
cellars, which are listed monuments.
Szombathely (B5) Of all the cities and towns of Pannonia, perhaps Szombathely is the
proudest of its two thousand year history. It is here that the Roman name of the city is used
most often, and cultural events, international dance competitions, a hotel and a square all
bear the name of Savaria. In fact, the “largest legion” in Europe, the Savaria legion, operates
in Szombathely. Its members are citizens with a sense of local patriotism, and in various events
parade in ancient soldiers’ uniforms, with exact replicas of old weapons. (The authentic costume
weighs in at 45 kilos.) Savaria was founded by Claudius Caesar in 43, along the northward
bound Amber Road, and the city soon grew rich from the traffic. Four hundred years later an earthquake
destroyed everything, putting an end to its splendour. Parts of ancient buildings, fragments
of statues, a 50-metre section of the famous Amber Road, and details of the mosaics from the
Governor’s palace can be seen in what is known as the garden of ruins, and the largest museum in
Pannonia, the Savaria Museum. Another interesting point: in the 2nd century, Pannonia was conquered
by the cult of Isis, of Egyptian origin. The ancient shrine to the goddess stands close to one of
the best-kept synagogues in the country. Medieval Szombathely was insignificant, and the town only
began to flourish once more in the 18th century. Empress Maria Theresa founded a bishopric in the
town, and with this, large-scale building started. So, at the same time, did the discovery of the Roman
past: the first finds were made when foundations were being laid for the new cathedral. The face of
Szombathely was determined by eighteenth- and nineteenth-century baroque and classical buildings,
such as the canon’s house, the Bishop’s palace in rococo style, and the cathedral. The first depiction
of the town (1749) can be seen by one of the side-altars of the church of St. Erzsébet.
There was a church in the 9th century on the site where the church of St. Márton now stands.
According to the legend, this is the birthplace of the beatified bishop of Tours in France. The town
was referred to centuries ago all over Europe as a place of the cult of St. Martin.
Sárvár (C5) This town along the River Rába is home to one of the most beautiful museums in the
country. Besides the luxurious furnishings, a special feature of the castle are the seventeenth-century
frescos depicting battle scenes in the wars against the Turks. The town is famous far and
wide for its medicinal and leisure baths, and the medicinal water containing mineral salts is particularly
recommended for rheumatic illnesses, convalescence after bone fractures, and gynaecological
complaints.
Somló This 433-metre high volcanic hill is to be found close to
Sárvár, and high quality grapes are grown on its slopes. Here
you can taste a wine named "juhfark" ("ewe's tail"), recommended
for wedding nights. According to popular belief, it
increases the likelihood of male heirs. It is said that Maria
Theresa, the Austrian Empress, always drank a glass before retiring
to bed. She gave birth to sixteen children. From the centre of
this wine region in Somlóvásárhely (D5), you can make a trip not
only to the wine cellars, but also to the fifteenth-century chapel of
St. Margaret, or to the ruins of Somló Castle.
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| Cák, line of cellars |
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| Sárvár |
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| Recalling Roman times in Szombathely |
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