Beside the River Danube the western border of the Southern Great Plainis marked by Hungary’s biggest river, the Danube. All the villages on the
Danube’s eastern shore are strongly linked with it; their inhabitants have
owed their living to it since time immemorial.
This area is not just good for fishing, there is an established tradition of viticulture
as well. At Solt (C5) it is well worth visiting some of the five hundred
underground cellars where wine can be sampled, and the Cellar Museum
where there are displays all about local wine making.
One of the many popular holiday resorts along the Great Plain stretch of the
Danube is Lake Szelidi (C5), formed from a backwater of the river. The saline,
iodic water was used in the healing of wounds as far back as the Middle
Ages, and is nowadays employed in the treatment of patients with locomotor
disorders. Further south, at Dávod (C7), the medicinal waters have quite
different properties. Here, the potassium and magnesium content is effective
against rheumatic complaints and is also taken as a drinking cure for the
prevention of tooth decay. There is an interesting “Tájház” local museum at
Harta (C5), and the superb restoration of the eighteenth century Synagogue
at Apostag (C5) has been recognized with the award of a European Nostra
Prize. Further south, the Danube–Dráva National Park provides a safe and
natural habitat for protected animals and birds. Its most remarkable treasure
– Veránka Island – is hidden from view by the veritable jungle of waterside
vegetation, but it is approachable by boat. Much of the area around the River
Danube and its backwaters is reachable by small railway and bicycle.
Kalocsa (C5) the town and district is one of the main paprika producing
areas in Hungary, and Kalocsa possesses a museum given over entirely to
the subject. Red paprika can often be seen strung up for drying around the
porches and porticos of the single-storey houses. But Kalocsa is also famed
for its folk art. Traditionally, walls and furniture are decorated with patterns
featuring wild flowers painted by the deft womenfolk. The same basic
motifs appear also on the embroidered tablecloths and folk costumes. The
200-year old “Tájház” Local Museum has some spectacular examples on
show. The town has been an archbishopric for a thousand years and boasts
a fine baroque Cathedral and Bishop’s Palace.
Hajós (C6) an unforgettable experience awaits those who visit Hajós, with its twelve
hundred architecturally unusual wine cellars, built by German settlers in the eighteenth
century. The uniform little press-houses with their tiny windows and tiled roofs, concealing
wine cellars hollowed out of the loess below, lie together in such profusion that they give the
appearance of dwellings in a normal village street. Some owners welcome visitors to taste
their fine wine not just during major festivals, when they choose from the priorly nominated
candidates to install the “Knight of the Wine,” for example, but at other times as well.
The Hajós area is also known as a place of pilgrimage, for the original settlers brought with them
a Gothic Madonna from their own church at Bussen.
Baja (C6) one of the most attractive towns to be found along the River Danube. For over three
centuries it has been home to a mixture of Hungarians, Germans, Croatians and Serbs. In the nineteenth
century it was a major trading centre, and only Pest was more important in terms of the
amount of corn exchanged. The wealth thus created is reflected in elegant public buildings and
ornate churches. The centre of town life is Szentháromság tér (Holy Trinity Square), which is
surrounded by the most beautiful buildings, among them the neo-Renaissance Town Hall. One side of
the square opens out on to the backwater of the River Sugovica. Baja is in the Guinness Book of
Records on account of the annual open-air fish soup cooking contest that takes place on the second
Saturday of July. The main square and adjoining streets are filled to capacity by two thousand competitors
cooking the famous Baja fish soup in traditional cauldrons.
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| The wine cellars at Hajós |
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| The main square at Baja |
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| Cooking fish soup |
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| Kalocsa Cathedral |
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